Finding a Rhythm, Comfort in Slow Mo

Happy Mother's Day! A sunshine morning and a box of Maple Leaf Cream Cookies, found in a grocery on the island of Kyushu, Japan.  Flowers for my bicycle and a cherry tart for breakfast. A artistic card to look at in the map case of my handlebar bag.  A day ahead planned biking up a volcano and an afternoon soaking in an onsen....a perfect way to celebrate Mother's Day!

Days of rain, unpredictable access to juicing up our electronics, mechanical issues with the bikes, we were in a bit of slow mo and transition in our first weeks of Japan.  However, the natural beauty, the calmness of the road, the spring flowers and fresh green leaves everywhere, and the accepting culture and simplicity we feel being here in Japan has given a sense of peace to our pace.  We are not covering a lot of ground, we are still on Kyushu, and now, we've come to agree that reaching the far north in Hokaido will likely be a tour of the future.  We are committed to fully enjoying each day and taking it as it comes.  Incredible consequences occurred this past week.  As we were coming out of the grocery Rick said "Whoa - look at that...!" A giant plume of ash cloud was spewing from a volcano peak looming above the valley we were biking through.  Fortunately the spewing tower reached a threshold, flattened out and began dispersing away from our valley.  It was indeed this peak that we had planned to hike around.  Our first encounter with a English speaking business owner was exactly when we needed it, at an outdoor store at the volcano's base.  The morning was spent drying out our wet gear in his park-like store grounds, using the  best wifi we'd encountered, and receiving maps and hike descriptions, in English, of the areas of the mountain that were still open and reachable.  We count on moments like this to fill in the blanks of ideas we have in our minds.  That afternoon we biked up the volcano and found ourselves soaking in a natural hot spring onsen looking down on the valley we'd climbed above.  We were camped in the narrow picnic area space across the road.  Life can be good, really good. The next day and days after, we find amazing encounters with people and nature confirming our mode that where you are is where it is.

 Does this happen in your backyard?

Just biking down the road brought us by this shrine in the towering trees...

I guess we are already on the climb up this volcano...

Tarn at the top.  At 13 he still loves to climb up boulders.

Pink azealeas bloom everywhere.

We had no idea the campground across this lake would show up.  A long day biking and 5:30PM allowed this gorgeous shot.

However, the campground was slightly difficult to get to.  Downed trees blocked the path that lined the lake.  Another small hurdle before the reward of a quiet and peaceful place to camp.  It didn't hurt that this night's cool down was in a crater lake.

Incredible views, great bikeways.

Sampson setting up his go pro to catch the movement of clouds above the town of Taketa.

Seafood pasta sauce.  Gourmet camping for sure!

Japan - a most hospitable country

Japan - what a treat it is to travel here.  "Thoughtful" is the word that summarizes Japan to me in my first 10 days here.  The culture just seems to have a pleasant life figured out.  For us that equates to things we appreciate:  Easy camping.  Washrooms at every park.  Familiar style groceries.  Bike shops with parts.  Beauty.  Cleanliness.  Order.  Kindness. Spring temperatures.   Really a welcome change from the tests of heat, noise, and chaos we've experienced in these past months.  We are excited for these two plus months ahead.  We will explore Kyushu, Shikoku, Honshu and Hokkaido from south to north. In July we will fly home to Canada and finish with a cycle home to Calgary from Vancouver. 

A night time pic of Fukuoku tower from our first night in Japan.  We camped along the parkway of the city beaches.  Free camping, as we had read, has been easy and accommodating.  Open, immaculate restrooms are part of every park.

Water is abundant on Kyushu. Every night we hear water.  From a river, from a canal, from a mountain stream.  While we know there will be times in our Japan experience that we will be much more urban, we are truly enjoying the rural areas of the less populated areas we are currently traveling.

Japanese groceries are more similar to North American groceries, they offer an abundance of product.  Prices here are more similar to home, which was a bit of a transition for us.  It's good camping is free!  We make all our meals and have the boys shopping on a budget.  Don't worry though, good food is always a focus.  Here is a picnic lunch of baguette with canned fish salad (tomatoes, onions, carrots and cucumber), sliced cheese, and lettuce.  The basket we bought in Laos for protecting the bananas we carry daily.  It was light enough that we didn't discard it prior to the flight from Vietnam but stuck it in with the bikes for transit.

A huge Shinto shrine that we happened into as we biked up a steep hill to a free camping area we'd located off our "free camping and hot springs" map.  Though we will seek out some tourist destinations (Hiroshima, Mt. Fuji, Tokyo), these ones that pop up along the way are super fun.

The coast looking off into the sea of Japan.  We will plan our route to include coastal as well as interior areas of each of the four large islands of Japan.

Our first evening meal celebrating the excellent fish available in the markets.  We found a cabin shelter on a tidal island which had a fire ring and a grill.  We declared a day off the bikes for the next day. Sampson, Markos and Rick would be the food supply expedition, Tanya and Tarn would stay back to dry out our gear in the sun.  It's spring time and along with the bounty of flowers and fresh green leaves, we are getting days of rain.  Something we've had months without!

A scene from our seaside tidal island fire ring.  Rick's SIM card allowed us to access wifi and find out the tidal patterns.  We arrived the first evening at 5:30 pm (low tide).  The next day's low tide would be 10:15 am.  In between the island was ours with no access on or off as the pebbly bridge of land was deep beneath the waves.  Planning accordingly, the food expedition happened between 9:30 and 11:30, Sampson, Markos and Rick made it safely back on the island with provisions for our day off.

This is not how a rear derailleur is supposed to look.  This is a scene of no return.  It took Rick's extreme ingenuity of single speeding his and Tarn's tandem, and then innumerable stops to adjust it as we sought out bike shops in the population areas ahead.  Without English communication and with a bit of detective work and luck, we located a new 10-speed derailleur within 48 hours.  Along the way of course we found food to feed the family and two nights of camping that needed to be on the way to one of these hopeful bike (not motorcycle) shops.  Things that helped make success of the adventure: sunshine, the parts of the road that were not climbs, the fact that Japan does have shops with quality bike parts, and the longer shop hours, 7 days a week.  Bike shop owners have allowed us a little window into Japanese culture too - they bring out chairs for all of us to sit, offer us a beverage and snack, and are happy to share with us a viewing of their tandem bike.  For some reason tandems are banned in various prefectures of Japan but the bike shop owners all have a tandem they love to show off.  No one has pulled Rick and Tarn off the road for riding a  tandem so far...

Markos heads into the clouds.  We are approaching and area of numerous volcanoes that are shrouded in clouds at the moment. The temperatures have been super pleasant.  Sunshine or rain.  On two separate rainy days we have sought out "onsens", or public hot pool baths that are common in most towns.  They are an incredible experience where men and women, in separate bathing areas, soak, scrub, and meditate in hot and cool pools, saunas and outdoor gardens.  Because we haven't found showers in our free camping evenings, the onsen experience is even the more welcome.  Our nightly "bandana bath" in a washroom toilet stall doesn't really qualify as a deep clean.

This senior lady loaded us up with lots of extra veggie gifts when we were selecting some cucumbers from her farm stand.  It is rare that we communicate in English but the communication of humanity and kindness is fluent in Japan.

Northern Vietnam Wraps Up Our Southeast Asia Experience

We approach Hanoi, the capital of Vietnam, from the south, seeking the lesser traveled routes.  Here our little road crosses a  river in the delta by ferry. Motorbikes know this route too.

Langsat, mangoes, watermelons, dragonfruit...fruit has been abundant in our last three months of Southeast Asia.  We've read that it is quite expensive to buy fresh fruit in Japan so we are making sure to enjoy the fruit before we leave!

Although rain has been rare, we were soaked on our day biking into the old quarter of Hanoi.  Narrow streets were lined with innumerable little shops peddling North Face gear and Under Armour clothing.  Noodle shops were abundant and we decided to maximize the abundance of delicious, inexpensive rice, veggie, rice noodle and beef/pork dishes.

Looking down from our 3rd floor balcony we saw the woman in orange frying up tofu, then delivering it down our narrow street with one of these silver trays loaded with tofu, mint greens, rice noodles and sweet dipping sauce.  Upon investigation we got in on the treat too!  Rick went downstairs and returned with a tray for us.  25VMD (about 1USD) made for an amazingly delicious breakfast for two.  When Sampson, Markos and Tarn woke up we ordered the tray for 40 VMD and it included fried egg rolls, sliced beef and chunks of sausage, easily feeding the three boys breakfast for less than 2USD.  Needless to say, we are eating out every meal in these final days in Vietnam.

Hanoi is busy with motorbikes and color.

And the finale - a celebration of our journey through Southeast Asia - a 3 day tour of Ha Long Bay.  Our cruise included kayak excursions and close up viewing of the amazing karst landscape.  The crew was super fun.  This is an adventure not-to-be-missed for visitors to Vietnam!

Today marks success. We did it.  We made it.  Bangkok, Thailand to Hanoi, Vietnam.  Almost four months cycling though the countries of Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam (southern), Laos, and Vietnam in the north.  Though grouped in the same area of the world.  We will remember the distinct differences of each.  The chaos on the roads of Cambodia and the silly pajama/slipper daily wear fashion.  The plastic garbage throughout.  The horrendous fake-swallow amplified chirping houses of southern Vietnam, the loud streets and traffic of Northern Vietnam. The Karaoke. The peacefulness and simplicity of Laos.  The climbs and cabbabe.  The kindness throughout. Southeast Asia had been an adventure.

We sit at the airport, ready to fly to Japan, our final "foreign" country to cycle (on this trip!)  No more guest houses...way to expensive.  We'll be camping.  Will we be eating out at all?  We'll figure it out.  We arrive in Fukuoka, Japan tomorrow at 10:00 am.  I'll be sure to let you know how it goes!

Laos Leaves a Lasting Impression

Plain of Jars site 2 near Phonsavan, Laos

The karst limestone formations that we've traveled through for the past weeks.

Simple village living in the mountains of northern Laos. Nothing for sale here.  I guess they live off the land?  So much we don't know and just make up answers for.

Muang Khoun - a historic town that where we took a day off.  Low key, interesting place, a great place to rejuvenate the body.

Another Plain of Jars shot - we spent a day exploring 3 sites near Phonsavan.  We've reached a point in our trip where "moving forward" is not the goal, but exploring and making the most of where we are.

Beauty comes in tiny sizes also in Laos.

Downtime while we wait to set up tents at dusk (the kids viewing us from the bridge above no doubt would come in closer if we set them up mid- afternoon.  Sometimes we need our own space!) We are high in the mountains and there is no guest house for miles.  A young fellow knew exactly where to recommend we camp - no English of course but obviously a "like" mind.

Looks like a sea of green!  Lots of veggie choice now that we have re-entered Vietnam in the north.  In contrast Laos was simple, calm, fewer people and fewer food options to choose from.

We are entering the final phase of our Southeast Asia experience - the approach to Hanoi (now just five bike days away), booking a special treat - a cruise in Ha Long Bay, and confirming flights to Japan, set now for May 2.  All our clothes are in tatters.  The sun and nightly washing out of sweat and dust has rendered them to rags.  Vietnam is a great place to replenish clothing.  This afternoon we were able to bargain prices to the right range - less than $5US an item.  Everyone needs a warm layer for the cooler Spring climate we will find in Japan, AND, the gain in muscle and loss of mid section inches mean clothes need to fit our current physique.

High in the Mountains of Northern Laos

It’s Pi Mai!!!!

Happy Lao New Year!

What you’ll need for your celebration:

Extreme festive mood

Large speaker, 2’x4’ (don’t worry, you have one anyway as you keep one handy for Karoke moments with your friends)

Intimate or large group of friends
Bleach to dye your hair red/ red marker/make-up to paint designs on your face

Single table (the cement picnic table in your front yard) or multiple folding tables (they will arrive by delivery truck in the color of blue, accompanied by stacks of red plastic chairs)

Table set ups of a plastic vertical box of chopsticks and Asian spoons, hot sauce, soy sauce, sugar, chili peppers, shrimp paste and large bottles of Beer Lao – crates more stacked in walls at the side of the scene

Coolers full of ice chunks for cooling down those warm Beer Laos, a chunk or two in your glass will do

Huge rice baskets full of sticky rice

Big kettles full of Laap (meat cooked with mint, etc.)

Plastic kids’ pools and lots of plastic water guns - the young boys' Pi Mai party happening right now in front of our guest house as I type involves huge water shooters and plastic masks.

Colored shirts that match

Play list of pop Lao music

Vat of Lao Lao (rice moonshine) with long sipping straws

Five days, April 9-14, no worries, nothing much else needs to happen during this time

We are cycling the highlands of northern Laos.  Plenty of sweat and water guzzling going on.  Screaming downhills and grinding uphills, 12% km after km.  It’s good to know at least the Laotian people are relaxing at times like this!

Another feast.  Sticky rice, mint/lettuces, grilled fish and skewered chicken.  We were guests of Ruth and Gael Letare, a Swiss family who live in Savanaket, Laos and have started a school of small business opportunities including cricket farming, sewing, baking, and cabinet making.  Gael pulled us off the bikes Easter Sunday to join their Egg Hunt gathering and one thing led to another....they happened to have three awesome young boys, a fantastically cool pool and also...owned a "small French Bakery".  No, it wasn't too good to be true.

and then sometimes the downside of travel...though we had permission from the monks to camp at their temple, the local federalies came in at  9pm and over-road the monks decision.  We could not stay there.  We packed up and followed them down the road to the nearest guest house.  The upside:  by the time it was all said and done the police paid the extra $2 so that we could have air conditioning - I think they felt bad about disrupting our otherwise peaceful night.

Sunrise in the mountains of northern Laos.  First hour ride of the day is always golden.

These young monks supplied us with loads of small packaged cookies and candies.  We'd just finished a steep climb and were ready for lunch.  The treats, the peace and the shade of a tree; it was perfect break.

We passed through the karsk region popular with many backpackers as the "Thaket Loop."  I definitely recommend it.

We are currently high in the mountains of northern Laos.  Steep 12% climbs and small hill tribe settlements along the road a few times a day.  Not much for sale, a few forest creatures and a strange bird were laid out on top of empty beer crates.  Not what I want for dinner.   We buy a few days' supplies for our travels between the veggie markets of the towns on our route.

Life is Calmer in Laos

We head out for the day.  This one started with a two hour climb up a steep hill.  We entered Laos from the Vietnam border where it also butts up to Cambodia.  A densely jungled mountainous landscape, peppered with huge, bare trunks of towering trees.  Quite a change from the ultra-organized landscape of Vietnam, where even mountaintops were planted with orchards of trees.

Pigs - a fun aspect of the roads of Laos.  We see all kinds.  Fit ones, fat ones, muddy ones, clean ones. Lots and lots of pigs.

The majority of buildings along the road are wood homes.  The breezeway below is a work space where you see families sitting on a wooden platform working on some project.  Colorful clothes hang from the windows, kids yell out "Sa ba dee!"  Sampson's bike has become known as the rock finder while mine has been named the dog catcher - we do our best to avoid collision with obstacles on our path but sometimes....

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Markos takes on the rough road before him.  While the majority of the roads we are on are paved in Laos, we sometimes chose a dirt route, an this one was the roughest one of the trip yet.  Thankfully it was generally downhill for 40 kilometres.

Laap, sticky rice, lettuce, green beans and fresh herbs, and because it is Sampson's 17th birthday lunch, giant iced down cups of pressed sugarcane juice.  Streetside lunches are either Laap or rice noodle soup with greens and a variety of meats.

Cake!  Markos spotted a little bakery counter along the road between the open air hardware store and a general everything store.  Yippee!  Sampson got to celebrate his 17th Birthday western style.

We pass by numerous Buddhist Wats during the day, and we are back to asking to camp at them.  They are quiet, peaceful and interesting places to rejuvenate our bodies each night.

Laos = Calm

Laos has a population of 7 million persons compared to 92 million persons in Vietnam

Laos is noted as the “poorest” southeast Asian country.  Our observation: in rural areas people live in raised stilt wooden homes, keep fenced gardens, sweep their living spaces, burn all rubbish.  Pigs, chickens, goats, cows, water buffalo, people seem to stay put.  Kids walk to school along the road.  Few bicycles, some motorbikes, newer trucks use the roads, along with older looking silver or gold spray painted van/trucks. 

No noise violations as of yet (no loud mosques, amplified sermons from churches or music from temples.)

We are back to asking to camp at Buddhist temples.  Afternoons we spend sitting still in the shade.  Boys hang their hammocks and do school.  Rick takes a nap or works on the bikes making interesting conversation with the numerous kids that are drawn to him (no, they don't speak English.)  Tanya filters water, writes in her journal and does some mending project. Our bucket-washed clothes hang in the sun.  Same clothes every day - long sleeve sun-shirts, bandanas over faces, sun-bleached shorts.

We have a couple new additions to the items we carry:  a foot scrub brush (heels don't have to be permanently blackened from flip flop use) and also an electric water kettle.  Check out what Rick can cook with it:

boiled water for coffee, rice, pasta, rice noodles, oatmeal

hard boiled eggs

boiled vegetables in chicken broth 

When we stay at a hotel, cooking with the camp stove isn't always an option so the electric kettle has been super helpful.  Also, early morning breakfast at 5:30 is a quick fix/clean-up when all we need is boiled water.

We are super happy to be biking in Laos and continue loving the adventure of the unknown each day.